The French Connection

A Parisian December

Over the last couple of weeks I've had a lot more insight into French culture and society. First of all, I was invited to attend a small party at the university in honour of a lecturer getting a PhD. It turned out, however, that the party was preceded by the actual reading of her PhD to five judges, who would then decide if, after seven years of work and hundreds of pages of research, she would actually attain this degree. The lecturer's family, friends and colleagues were all there, and we all waited nervously as the judges first left to confer, then came back in to give their verdict (we actually had to stand up as they entered!) Thankfully it was a "yes", so it was champagne all round. Still, it seems a lot more complicated and stressful than in the UK, where a PhD takes only three years!

Still on the theme of universities, last week I went to a classical music concert at the Sorbonne, one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in Paris. The concert was really amazing, but what surprised me most was that when it finished, at 11.30pm, everyone headed straight to a restaurant to eat! I'm still on English time when it comes to food, and find it hard to eat dinner at 9pm, let alone 11.30pm!

With my students at the university this week we've been discussing national stereotypes and customs, and whilst I'm starting to agree with them that French food is better than English food, I think we do Christmas better. Christmas carols here seem few and far between, the main ones being translations (whoever decided to translate jingle bells as 'long live winter wind' has a lot to answer for), and there are no Christmas crackers or mince pies! That said, I went to a lovely Christmas market at the weekend, and I spent the one snow day we've had drinking coffee with a friend, listening to a live piano player and appreciating the Christmas decorations nearby! I do love December!

Strikes!

Considering I've been in France for less than three months, I've already seen a lot of protests and a lot of strikes. Air traffic controllers, lorry drivers, teaching assistants...the list goes on. The bus conductors have a strike planned for December and this week alone teachers and Air France pilots were on strike. As for the trains, they're really reliable, but there's almost always a "social movement"! It makes the commute very stressful!

Not a lot of news to report from across the channel, as I've been really busy with work! (The French actually have a saying for this- métro, boulot, dodo, which translates as tube, work, bed!), but I have learnt a few more interesting things about the french way of life.

Here in France everyone eats out at midday- the packed lunch as we know it doesn't exist! It turns out most businesses are part of a scheme where employees receive what's called a "ticket restaurant". As part of your monthly wage you receive a book of coupons (each worth about €7) which are valid in almost every café and restaurant. Most restaurants offer a €7 menu, which comprises a salad/baguette, dessert and drink. (It seems a really good scheme- the restaurants get more custom, and employees get a cheap meal (and in Paris, you're spoilt for choice!)

Sadly I've not been working here long enough to be entitled to these coupons, but more and more I'm being enticed by the bakeries and cafés, especially Starbucks, which has christmas drinks not available in the UK! With the lights having just been illuminated on the Champs Elysées, now seems the ideal time to wrap up warm with a hot chocolate and watch the world go by! I'm sure most people in England are doing the same!

Delicacies and Days Off

Life here across the channel is continuing much as it would in the UK- we even have a French version of The X Factor! It's called Star Academy and is on Friday nights. I haven't become addicted yet but if this cold snap continues my TV watching will increase for definite! In fact, here they show CSI, Grey's Anatomy, NCIS, even Torchwood and Midsomer Murders (which for some reason is called Inspector Barnaby)! All the programmes are dubbed, which was strange to get used to at first but is now quite normal. Although it does lead me to think- how many programmes on UK television are dubbed or subtitled? I don't know that I've ever seen one!

I've been working quite a lot, but last week my parents came to visit, which was really lovely. I'd gotten used to the life here, but seeing them and doing the tourist sights was a nice reminder that Paris is actually a beautiful city, and the food really is that good. Despite all the choolate and cheese (and there is a LOT of cheese), French people are really quite healthy. They eat a lot but they eat well, and fast food isn't so popular as it is here. In fact, there's no Burger King in France. That said, I'm still eating tea at 6 or 7pm and not at 9 or 10pm like the French!

Hallowe'en came and went quickly- it isn't really celebrated in France, but November 1st (All Saints Day) is. It's a public holiday, and most French people spend the day with their families, either visiting the cemeteries where loved ones were buried or commemorating the dead. I spent the day with friends, but strolling alone on Sunday got me thinking. Being away from my family (and friends, for that matter) makes me realise just how important they are. I have family and friends in the UK, Spain, Australia and Nepal, and friends going to Australia, the States and Asia, and I can't wait to see them when they and I get back home!

All of France is currently very excited about the US election tomorrow, though sadly I'm missing out on Bonfire Night. It's a surprisingly difficult holiday to explain to a foreigner. We also don't have poppies here, although like the 1st, November 11th is a public holiday.

For this week though, it's work, and the commute. There seems to be no law about busking here, so many of my metro journeys come complete with puppet shows, accordion players and karaoke singers. It's the Paris the guide books don't mention!

Midnight and a flaming torch

My second month in France; or how I ended up wandering the streets at midnight with a flaming torch.

Yes, September in France means lots of (free!) exciting events, one of which was a guided tour of my area. Everyone was given a lit torch and during the evening we were serenaded by accordion and clarinet players! September also saw les journées du patrimoine, a weekend when all museums are free and many other organisations open their doors to the public. I visited the headquarters of France 5, one of the TV stations here! And to finish off the cultural activities, on the first Sunday of every month the museums are free, so I went to the Pompidou Centre, a modern-art museum with crazy exhibits and amazing views of the Parisian skyline.
My job at the University is going well; all of the students are studying either biology or computer science and English is compulsory for them. Luckily, they all enjoy it and see it as very useful for their careers. I have found a second job, also teaching English, but in central Paris (next to the famous Opera house!). It seems being a native English speaker opens many doors here- so many people need to learn it for their work!
I've been spending my free time strolling round Paris and Versailles. I've seen the fountains at the Chateau of Versailles, and yesterday met a friend for a monumental walk that took in the Louvre, Notre-Dame, the Sorbonne, the Luxembourg Gardens (home of the French Senate) and the Eiffel Tower, which was blue and yellow to commemorate France holding the EU Presidency but is now back to normal.
I'm still finding it hard to meet French people, which sounds ridiculous but can get quite disheartening! That said, I've had letters and phone calls from friends, which has really cheered me up. From the UK I'm mostly missing people, although the ability to check my bank balance at a cashpoint is something I would really like to have out here! I do agree with the French way of spending Sundays, though!! All shops and supermarkets are closed, so people spend the day with family and friends, either eating out, walking and cycling, or going to the cinema. It's taken me a while to get used to, but now I enjoy how relaxing Sundays here are!
The nights are starting to draw in now (and I have checked, our clocks go back the same time as in the UK), and the Christmas lights are already being put up along the Champs Elysées ready to be turned on at the end of November! But before that I have family and friends coming to visit, so I need to prepare for my tour guide duties!

Settling in

I’ve been in France for just over a week now and am beginning to settle in.

I will be here for a year working as an English language assistant at the University of Versailles. The job itself, though a full-time contract, is only 12 hours per week, so I’ve decided to look for a second job to keep myself busy and to earn some extra money.

The things I thought would be complicated, such as finding a place to live, opening a bank account and sorting out my work timetable have been fairly straightforward. What I have found difficult is re-installing myself in a country where I know only a handful of people. Although I have spent four years away from home at university, starting over in a new place and leaving family and friends is always so very hard. I realise how lucky I am to be here, and how much France, and Paris in particular, has so much to offer, yet seeing the Eiffel Tower sparkling on a September evening seems unbearably empty if there’s no one to appreciate it with.

Aside from dealing with homesickness, I’ve had cultural differences to contend with. Negotiating my way round a French hypermarket was stressful, filling in a form at the HSBC to confirm I’m not American bizarre, and locking myself in a toilet downright embarrassing. I’ve also managed to order raw beef for dinner and break the automated stamp machine at the local post office. So much for a effortless transition into French society!

There have been times this week when I wondered why I ever decided to leave the comfort and security of home.

However, spending a Saturday evening strolling through the Jewish quarter of Paris eating falafal with new friends reminded me why I’m here- to experience new, odd, random and unpredictable things. This year will be a challenge, but also an amazing opportunity. And what better backdrop to have than the most beautiful city in the world.